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IN-N-OUT BURGER:
THE BEST THE WEST HAS TO OFFER
ands down, the East Coast is the place to be for the best food on the planet. With New York deli, Jersey Shore pizza and Philly cheesesteaks, it's enough to make anybody break a New Year’s resolution. The trendy new-age restaurants of California do manage to create eye-pleasing presentations out of kelp and artichoke hearts, yet somehow always leave your stomach growling for more. The only glaring exception to this rule is in the fast food arena, specifically, in the form of In-N-Out Burger.

Most Americans have probably never heard of the wonderfulness that is In-N-Out Burger. Unless, of course, they happened to catch the reference in The Big Lebowski ("Boy those are some good burgers." "Shut the f--- up Donny."). In-N-Out is a fast-food chain that, simply put, makes the absolute best hamburgers EVER. Unfortunately, to get one of these burgers, you must be in the southwest where In-n-Outs are scattered across California and select locations in Arizona and Nevada.

I walked into my first In-N-Out during my first month in Los Angeles. I had heard the hype. I was ready to see if these burgers lived up to their reputation. The menu initially surprised me. I had been expecting a large and exotic selection of Pizza Burgers, Cowabunga Burgers and Spinach & Artichoke Burgers. Instead, the menu contained exactly six items: Hamburger, Cheeseburger, Double-Double (a double-cheeseburger), French Fries, Soda, and Milkshake. I didn’t get it. What was so special about this place? My question was answered the second I bit into my simple one-patty hamburger, topped with lettuce, tomato, onions and In-N-Out’s own special sauce. Only then was it obvious – a smaller menu meant more attention to each item on it. Jack of one trade, master of their domain. I was hooked.

The first In-N-Out Burger opened in 1948, founded by the husband and wife team of Harry and Esther Snyder. As history declares, Harry came up with a rather novel idea that customers could place orders from their cars through a two-way speaker box. The first drive-thru was thus created. From the beginning, the In-N-Out philosophy has always been, "Give customers the freshest, highest quality foods you can buy and provide them with friendly service in a sparkling clean environment."

Very little has changed since then. Whereas the original restaurant was walk-up and drive-thru service only, most In-N-Outs now have inside-n-outside seating – though a few still keep with the original design. The Snyder family still owns the company with no plans to franchise, allowing them the freedom to oversee every aspect of their creation. They are always proud to point out that there are no microwaves, freezers or heat-lamps in any of their restaurants. No burger hits the grill until it’s ordered. The french-fries are cut daily from fresh potatoes and their milkshakes are made from real ice-cream. Plus, the burgers themselves are made from real beef. No engineered soy products here – unlike some other fast food chains I could mention. Faithful In-N-Out patrons are well aware of the company’s philosophies and procedures. "They even put the french-fry slicer in the window… to prove they make their fries fresh," says Burbank, CA resident, Nichole Cherill.

But the mark of a true In-N-Out devotee is knowing the "secret menu". Sure the regular menu only has six items, but those in the know can order themselves a "4x4", a burger with four patties and four slices of cheese. Order that burger "animal style" and they’ll grill your bun with mustard, swap the raw onions for grilled ones, and add pickles and extra sauce at no extra cost. On the Atkins diet? Order that burger "protein style" and they’ll wrap it in lettuce instead of a bun. Officially, these and other items don’t actually exist, or at least, are not advertised. You just have to know to ask for them. Jess Aichs of West Hollywood says, "The secret menu is this strange phenomenon. Everyone knows about it, but has no idea how it started or why they don't just put that stuff on their regular menu. I guess it's become some sort of a cult thing." Check out www.zenlemur.com/innout.shtml for the complete "secret menu."

One aspect of the In-N-Out way that tends to go unnoticed by even the most devout patrons is the presence of the Son of God in their food. Well sort of. Careful observers will find tiny Bible citations such as "John 3:16" and "Revelation 3:20" discreetley printed on their cups and burger wrappers. No quotes, just verse numbers, allowing customers to draw their own conclusions. It’s the Snyder family’s subtle way of sharing their Christian faith with others. Of course, this has inevitably stirred up some mild anger amongst certain patrons, including one particularly irate pagan who declared publicly on epinions.com, that even though "their cheeseburgers are just about my favorite meal… I have spent my last dollar [at In-N-Out]." Your loss buddy. Most customers simply acknowledge the privately owned company’s right to free speech and move on with their lives. Kate Jonsunaitis of Sherman Oaks, CA says, "I'd gripe about it, but their burgers and fries are too darned good!"

The Snyder family’s Christian ethos applies to more than just their packaging. In-N-Out was about the only fast-food chain recognized by Eric Schlosser in his scathing book, Fast Food Nation for treating and paying their employees decently. The starting wage at In-N-Out is $8.25 per hour, with benefits. Compare that to franchises like McDonald’s, who keep their employees at minimum wage until they quit. Managers at In-N-Out, on average, make over $80,000 a year. The employee appreciation definitely shines through. The counter staff is always smiling. The drive-thru voices are always chipper. It’s not uncommon to hear singing from the guy slicing the french-fries. Even if the burgers weren’t the best in the world, the demeanor of the staff is enough to keep you coming back for more.

In-N-Out Burger is a true testament to the small, ethical business. Instead of cutting costs with cheaper materials, they continue to use the highest quality ingredients. Instead of responding capitalistically to supply and demand (they could easily charge five dollars for their burgers), they have kept their prices low. They treat their customers and employees with the utmost respect, and even try and save their souls in the process. What more could you ask from a fast-food restaurant? Except… more restaurants?

The good aspect of In-N-Out never franchising is that they retain tight control over the quality of their product, ensuring a great burger at every establishment. The bad side, of course, is that expansion will always be slow. I left California over a year and a half ago, and haven’t had a burger that compares to In-N-Out since. And I am sad. But, according to Jeannie Rios of In-N-Out Burger customer service, "We are still expanding, but are always careful not to open a new location until we can guarantee the same quality food and service as we provide in our existing locations. But thanks to customers like you, hopefully you'll see us in more states in the future!" With that cruel carrot dangling in front of me, I find myself hoping against hope that In-N-Out Burger will somehow find it’s way to the East Coast, thus ending the West’s only claim to culinary superiority.

www.in-n-out.com

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