ands
down, the East Coast is the place to be for the best food on the planet.
With New York deli, Jersey Shore pizza and Philly cheesesteaks, it's
enough to make anybody break a New Year’s resolution. The trendy new-age
restaurants of California do manage to create eye-pleasing presentations
out of kelp and artichoke hearts, yet somehow always leave your stomach
growling for more. The only glaring exception to this rule is in the
fast food arena, specifically, in the form of In-N-Out Burger.
Most Americans have probably
never heard of the wonderfulness that is In-N-Out Burger.
Unless, of course, they happened to catch the reference in The
Big Lebowski ("Boy those are some good burgers." "Shut
the f--- up Donny."). In-N-Out is a fast-food chain
that, simply put, makes the absolute best hamburgers EVER.
Unfortunately, to get one of these burgers, you must be in the southwest
where In-n-Outs are scattered across California and select
locations in Arizona and Nevada.
I walked into my first
In-N-Out during my first month in Los Angeles. I had heard
the hype. I was ready to see if these burgers lived up to their
reputation. The menu initially surprised me. I had been expecting
a large and exotic selection of Pizza Burgers, Cowabunga Burgers
and Spinach & Artichoke Burgers. Instead, the menu contained
exactly six items: Hamburger, Cheeseburger, Double-Double (a double-cheeseburger),
French Fries, Soda, and Milkshake. I didn’t get it. What was so
special about this place? My question was answered the second I
bit into my simple one-patty hamburger, topped with lettuce, tomato,
onions and In-N-Out’s own special sauce. Only then was it
obvious – a smaller menu meant more attention to each item on it.
Jack of one trade, master of their domain. I was hooked.
The first In-N-Out
Burger opened in 1948, founded by the husband and wife team
of Harry and Esther Snyder. As history declares, Harry came up with
a rather novel idea that customers could place orders from their
cars through a two-way speaker box. The first drive-thru was thus
created. From the beginning, the In-N-Out philosophy has
always been, "Give customers the freshest, highest quality
foods you can buy and provide them with friendly service in a sparkling
clean environment."
Very little has changed
since then. Whereas the original restaurant was walk-up and drive-thru
service only, most In-N-Outs now have inside-n-outside seating
– though a few still keep with the original design. The Snyder family
still owns the company with no plans to franchise, allowing them
the freedom to oversee every aspect of their creation. They are
always proud to point out that there are no microwaves, freezers
or heat-lamps in any of their restaurants. No burger hits the grill
until it’s ordered. The french-fries are cut daily from fresh potatoes
and their milkshakes are made from real ice-cream. Plus, the burgers
themselves are made from real beef. No engineered soy products here
– unlike some other fast food chains I could mention. Faithful
In-N-Out patrons are well aware of the company’s philosophies
and procedures. "They even put the french-fry slicer in the
window… to prove they make their fries fresh," says Burbank,
CA resident, Nichole Cherill.
But the mark of a true
In-N-Out devotee is knowing the "secret menu".
Sure the regular menu only has six items, but those in the know
can order themselves a "4x4", a burger with four patties
and four slices of cheese. Order that burger "animal style"
and they’ll grill your bun with mustard, swap the raw onions for
grilled ones, and add pickles and extra sauce at no extra cost.
On the Atkins diet? Order that burger "protein style"
and they’ll wrap it in lettuce instead of a bun. Officially, these
and other items don’t actually exist, or at least, are not advertised.
You just have to know to ask for them. Jess Aichs of West Hollywood
says, "The secret menu is this strange phenomenon. Everyone
knows about it, but has no idea how it started or why they don't
just put that stuff on their regular menu. I guess it's become some
sort of a cult thing." Check out www.zenlemur.com/innout.shtml
for the complete "secret menu."
One aspect of the In-N-Out
way that tends to go unnoticed by even the most devout patrons is
the presence of the Son of God in their food. Well sort of. Careful
observers will find tiny Bible citations such as "John 3:16"
and "Revelation 3:20" discreetley printed on their cups
and burger wrappers. No quotes, just verse numbers, allowing customers
to draw their own conclusions. It’s the Snyder family’s subtle way
of sharing their Christian faith with others. Of course, this has
inevitably stirred up some mild anger amongst certain patrons, including
one particularly irate pagan who declared publicly on epinions.com,
that even though "their cheeseburgers are just about my favorite
meal… I have spent my last dollar [at In-N-Out]." Your
loss buddy. Most customers simply acknowledge the privately owned
company’s right to free speech and move on with their lives. Kate
Jonsunaitis of Sherman Oaks, CA says, "I'd gripe about it,
but their burgers and fries are too darned good!"
The Snyder family’s Christian
ethos applies to more than just their packaging. In-N-Out
was about the only fast-food chain recognized by Eric Schlosser
in his scathing book, Fast Food Nation for treating and
paying their employees decently. The starting wage at In-N-Out
is $8.25 per hour, with benefits. Compare that to franchises
like McDonald’s, who keep their employees at minimum wage
until they quit. Managers at In-N-Out, on average, make over
$80,000 a year. The employee appreciation definitely shines through.
The counter staff is always smiling. The drive-thru voices are always
chipper. It’s not uncommon to hear singing from the guy slicing
the french-fries. Even if the burgers weren’t the best in
the world, the demeanor of the staff is enough to keep you coming
back for more.
In-N-Out Burger
is a true testament to the small, ethical business. Instead of cutting
costs with cheaper materials, they continue to use the highest quality
ingredients. Instead of responding capitalistically to supply and
demand (they could easily charge five dollars for their burgers),
they have kept their prices low. They treat their customers and
employees with the utmost respect, and even try and save their souls
in the process. What more could you ask from a fast-food restaurant?
Except… more restaurants?
The good aspect of In-N-Out
never franchising is that they retain tight control over the
quality of their product, ensuring a great burger at every establishment.
The bad side, of course, is that expansion will always be slow.
I left California over a year and a half ago, and haven’t had a
burger that compares to In-N-Out since. And I am sad.
But, according to Jeannie Rios of In-N-Out Burger customer
service, "We are still expanding, but are always careful not
to open a new location until we can guarantee the same quality food
and service as we provide in our existing locations. But thanks
to customers like you, hopefully you'll see us in more states in
the future!" With that cruel carrot dangling in front of me,
I find myself hoping against hope that In-N-Out Burger will
somehow find it’s way to the East Coast, thus ending the West’s
only claim to culinary superiority.
www.in-n-out.com
|