was driving to L.A. after graduation the day I discovered R&L
Barbecue. Two days after hitting New Orleans, I had decided to
get off the interstate for the broad section of Texas. Highway 87
brought me to Fredericksburg – about as dead-center in Texas as you
can get. It was lunchtime and I had been craving barbecue ever since
Memphis. Entering the little family-run restaurant, I was treated
to indescribably delicious homemade sauces of varying intensity (you
ladeled your own from three big buckets), brisket so tender it melted
in your mouth, and a cherry cobbler straight from heaven. Mom ran
the register while the boys did the cookin’. And my-oh-my, their accents
were as catching as their hospitality. Mom never once rolled her eyes
or even considered becoming annoyed when I asked question after question
about her menu, or when I returned for seconds, thirds and
fourths. Her smile and her courtesy were genuine Texas.
On my most recent trip
across the country – the one that brought me back from L.A. – I
decided to swing through Fredericksburg once again for a hearty
helping of the best barbecue in the speaking world. The thing was,
I was trying to make it coast to coast in four days and Fredericksburg
wasn’t exactly on the way. 433 miles from I-40 – the most
direct route – to be exact. Yet it was never really a dilemma. I
had been craving that sauce, that meat, that cobbler for over a
year. I wanted it, and this was as close as I was going to be to
it for a very long time. I checked the Rotary website for Fredericksburg
and R&L was still listed. I couldn’t fathom the place
going out of business. It had had a line out the door the last time
I was there. Imagine my surprise when I got to mile 433 of my side
trip only to discover that R&L Barbecue had in
fact closed its doors.
I had never bothered
to look up an address for R&L. I knew I would recognize
the light blue building with its front-porch overhang as soon as
I saw it. But after driving back and forth through Fredericksburg
a few times, I wondered if I was maybe on the wrong street. I didn’t
think so. I remembered it being right on the main drag that went
through this small town. A couple times I thought I’d spotted it,
but it turned out to just be a needlepoint shop. Finally, I pulled
into a gas station and asked some old fella where I might find R&L
Barbecue. "Oh they’ve been closed for over a year now.
Just got tired of it I guess."
Just got tired of
it??? That place had to have been a goldmine, and they just…
got tired of it? I drove back to where I thought I’d seen
the restaurant, and sure enough, I hadn’t been mistaken; R&L
Barbecue was now a needlepoint shop. I stared through the window
thinking I must be hallucinating or at least gravely mistaken. No
way had I driven this far out of the way for nothing. I looked at
the building’s façade. Damned if it wasn’t the exact same
building, same color, same overhang. But it was a needlepoint shop.
A fucking needlepoint shop. For lunch that day, I ate really
bad fried chicken from some southern fast food chain. I sheepishly
resumed my drive east, trying to make up time and distance the entire
way.
In retrospect, this really
was an easily avoidable situation. There had been a phone number
for R&L Barbecue on the Rotary website. One phone call
is all it would have taken. In a situation where I was driving 400
miles out of my way for one purpose and one purpose only, one would
think that that would have been the first thing I would have done.
Double check to make sure the damn place is still standing. Goldmine
or not, fires and tornadoes still happen. I’ve always tended to
act first and think second, but even this went beyond my usual lack
of prudence. If given a few minutes or hours to mull over my decisions,
the flaws in my thinking will generally become quite obvious. This
particular expedition had been an entire day’s worth of driving
– not counting the several weeks of planning that went into the
road trip. Plenty of time to smarten up. Yet I still charged ahead
on blind faith. Faith that something would be there in the end.
Do I regret going so
far out of my way in vain? Nah. I made up the time the next day
by driving a thousand miles in 17 hours. Sure I felt silly, but
if faced with a similar situation, I’m sure I’d handle it the exact
same way. What if I had called the number for R&L
and it had come up disconnected? That wouldn’t have told me for
certain that it was closed. I could have called information or the
local chamber of commerce to be positive, but I’m still not quite
sure I would have believed them. Tell me something is hot, I’m still
going to tap it a couple times just to check. Tell me the paint
is wet and I’m still going to put my fingers in it. I had to see
for myself that there was nothing left for me in Fredericksburg.
So often, those little (or long) side trips are worth far more than
the time they took. That little bit of wasted time here and there
is worth never having to look back and wondering about a missed
opportunity. If I hadn’t seen the needlepoint shop with my own eyes,
I’d still be kicking myself, wishing I had gone the extra mile (433
of them) and gotten myself some mouth watering R&L Barbecue.
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